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Why do new goldfish die with swim bladder issues after adding to tank?

Updated On September 23rd, 2025

Have 60 gal tank with 2 largish Ryukin goldfish, doing well together in this tank for several months. I added 3 times different smaller Ryukin from different sources, acclimated by floating bag method, put in the tank with the larger Ryukin. All new fish died within 3-5 days, w/ signs of swim bladder problem - not remaining upright, then dies. Water tests all zeros, using Safe, API proper ph 7.5 & bacteria. Temp 78. Tank cleaned often.. Eat soaked Hikari sinking mini pellets, peas. Ideas?

2 Answers

Most Helpful Answer

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Answered By Kelvin Fujikawa

Aquatic expert

Published on July 23rd, 2017

You mention that your water tests all zeros. Which parameters are you referring to ammonia and nitrite? If so, have you measured your nitrate level? Though not as toxic as ammonia or nitrite, nitrate is still harmful to fish especially in concentrated levels. Please test your nitrate levels and if your levels are higher that 40 ppm, perform a series of small water changes (10%) every other day to slowly lower your nitrate level to under 40 ppm.

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    Answered By Angel Alvarado, LVT

    Licensed Veterinary Technician

    Published on October 7th, 2017

    It is possible infection or parasites were introduced into the tank with the new fish. It is always recommended to quarantine any new fish prior to adding them to a main tank. Another possibility may be poor water quality due to overcrowding. Goldfish produce a larger than average bio load which means they need bigger tanks and better filtration to handle the wastes. Ideally, one goldfish should have 20 gallons and you should add 10 additional gallons per fish. As they grow, a larger tank will be a necessity. The filter should be rated for at least twice the volume of the tank. Test the water quality or submit a sample for testing. Most pet or fish stores will do this for free or for a nominal fee. Ammonia and nitrites should be 0.25 ppm (parts per million) or less, nitrates should be 40ppm or less. Temperature should be between 65 F and 72 F. Partial water changes (30% of volume) can be done daily to stabilize water chemistry. Use only aged or conditioned water that is temperature matched to prevent further stress or shock. Plain aquarium salt (NOT table salt) can be used to treat minor infection (bacterial or fungal) and to aid in healing. Dissolve up to 1 tablespoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water into a cup of tank water and slowly pour it into the tank. Treat for 7-10 days then perform water changes to decrease salinity.

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